Wednesday, 29 February 2012

Sparkling Phases of the Moon from Angular Momentum

Angular Momentum has added a new model to its "Sparkling Timepiece Collection".
1.4435NcU Staybrite "Cup" shape case mirror polished, with 50.100 ct. sapphire crystal, historical (NOS) hand-winding movement caliber FHF 96, Staybrite crown with cabochon Onyx, the inner case lacquered with black "Urushi" lacquer dusted with diamond glitter. Staybrite back with 45.000 ct. sapphire crystal dusted with diamond glitter and lacquered on its reverse.
The jumping disk, which replaces the dial, also black lacquered and dusted with diamond glitter, the glowing moon made of Email Lumineuse. The disk jumps every day one step ahead. When it arrives at 12 o‘clock it indicates full moon, when its at 6 o‘clock, it indicates half moon. The revolving hour disk also lacquered and dusted with diamond splitters is set with a luminous hour dot, skeleton diamond cut steel hand.


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Tuesday, 28 February 2012

The Oktopus II Double Date from Linde Werdelin

The Oktopus II - Double Date is our interpretation of what the ideal timepiece should be for modern diving. It has been inspired by the air-tight pressure chamber used for simulations when testing both the Oktopus II and the Reef. The Oktopus II — Double Date's innovative five-part case construction ensures absolute water resistance as well as excellent protection against seawater corrosion. “To guarantee this we have chosen anti-corrosive materials such as gold, titanium and ceramic, the last employed for the first time on our timepieces,” says Morten Linde, creative mind at LINDE WERDELIN. In the last five years, LINDE WERDELIN has undertaken the complex development of the Reef, acquiring unequalled expertise which has been applied into the Oktopus II, both in its design and structure. The combination of the Oktopus II and the Reef emphasizes LINDE WERDELIN’s philosophy stating time should be read analogue while performance, should be measured digital.

Oktopus II – Double Date in titanium and ceramic will retail at CHF 8,800. Oktopus II – Double Date in titanium, titanium DLC and ceramic with yellow accents in dial will retail at CHF 9,400; Oktopus II – Double Date Rose Gold and titanium will retail at CHF 18,500. All exclusive of VAT from autumn 2012 on or from any LW authorised retailer in local currency.

Sneak preview of Basel launch:
Full film release - coming soon!!


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Monday, 27 February 2012



Photo courtesy of Richard Mille - Photo Credit Donato Sardella

On February 24, 2012, Richard Mille and Vanity Fair hosted an exclusive cocktail reception honoring Academy Award®-winning director Martin Scorsese at Los Angeles’ Hotel Bel-Air in support of The Film Foundation.

The evening also served as a celebration of Mr. Scorsese’s film Hugo, which is nominated for 11 Oscars this year including Best Director and Best Picture. The Academy Awards will be presented on Sunday, February 26.

Leading actors, directors, and film industry executives joined Mr. Richard Mille and CEO of Richard Mille Americas John Simonian for the occasion. Guests at the event included honoree Martin Scorsese and Helen Scorsese, Demian Bichir, Executive Director of the Film Foundation Margaret Bodde, Lorraine Bracco, Vanity Fair Editor-in-Chief Graydon Carter, Jessica Chastain, Patricia Clarkson, Frances Conroy, Sebastian Copeland, Kevin Corrigan, Elizabeth Cotnoir, Danny Huston, Sir Ben Kingsley, Olga Kurylenko, Fran Lebowitz, Ray Liotta, Vanity Fair Publisher Edward Menicheschi, Kathleen Robertson, Rick Rubin, Howard Shore, Maura Tierney, and Pharrell Williams, among others.


The Film Foundation was created in 1990 by Martin Scorsese and a distinguished group of filmmakers to address the need to preserve cinematic heritage. Over the past 22 years, The Film Foundation has raised awareness for film preservation within the industry and the public at large, and has helped to preserve more than 565 films. In addition, through “The Story of Movies” educational program, the foundation reaches more than 9 million students, educating them about film language and history.


Muscular long-form journalism, stunning photography, insightful essays, and superb design make each issue of Vanity Fair an indispensable tool for understanding our world. Every month, the magazine commissions the best writers and photographers to explain the pressing issues of the day and take the pulse of the culture. Vanity Fair consistently delivers crucial reporting on business and finance, domestic politics, and world affairs, even as it covers the very best in arts and entertainment.


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Saturday, 25 February 2012

Dubey & Schaldenbrand Returns to the Spotlight in North America

Returning to center stage with a new collection featuring a resolutely modern design based on traditional horological values, Dubey & Schaldenbrand is pleased to announce the return of the brand to North America. Sixty-five years after it was created, the brand is getting a fresh lease on life with Jonatan Gil at the helm, the owner since 2009, in conjunction with Dubey & Schaldenbrand Americas.

The Dubey & Schaldenbrand Americas team is made up of members of the Daaboul family; father Maurice, son Christopher and daughter Léa. Maurice Daaboul is a veteran of the watch and jewelry industry and has been an international overseas distributor for brands such as Universal Genève, Breitling, Favre Leba, Fortis, and Eterna, for over 30 years. Customer service is of the utmost importance to the Daaboul family and at the forefront of their business model. This is the perfect match for any boutique watch manufacturer who is looking for a partner with the right combination of industry knowledge, a high degree of quality service, and strong customer relationships.Christopher Daaboul, Director of Sales and Marketing, explained how the collaboration came about: “Dubey & Schaldenbrand Americas, Inc. began when a mutual Swiss family friend put us in touch with the Gil family, who had been looking for a knowledgeable, ambitious, and long-term oriented team to distribute Dubey & Schaldenbrand in North America. For us, success and gratification is achieved not solely in monetary value, but rather in the fundamental establishment, growth, and prosperity of an enterprise and its relationships. That is the American dream we have been lucky to experience, and that is what we hope to achieve with Dubey & Schaldenbrand and its partners in the United States and Canada”The team will initially focus on pairing with retailers in key markets, who possess the same philosophy of providing the highest standards of service and product knowledge, resulting in an exceptional customer experience. Additionally a new advertising campaign is being introduced along with a series of launch events, which will certainly bring the brand into the spotlight.


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Friday, 24 February 2012

A new partnership for Armin Strom

A Strong Partnership

Armin Strom is increasing its involvement in racing sports. After its already existing cooperation with the Marussia F1 Team, the Biel watch Manufacture is now sponsoring the GAC Pindar Sailing Team.

GAC Pindar is a partnership between the globally active GAC logistics and shipping

company and the Extreme Sailing Team Pindar. Its homeport is Southampton in England.

The independent GAC Pindar Sailing Team has already ranked among the world leaders

since 1980, and by supporting the team, Armin Strom is further strengthening its involvement

in racing sports. As with Formula 1, competing on the waves also demands innovation,

perfection and precision on the part of the whole crew, qualities to be found in Armin Strom’s

high-value timekeepers.

Attractive environment for Armin Strom:

Each year, the best Extreme Sailing Teams compete against each other around the world.

Apart from the Admiral’s Cup and the America’s Cup, these races are some of the most

important events in the sailing calendar. The special feature of this power play on the seas is

the proximity with the public.

From stands on the shore, spectators can follow racing developments at close quarters.

Tight curves, overtaking manoeuvres and perfectly coordinated sailing teams all contribute to

the spectacle on the water.


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Wednesday, 22 February 2012

Hanhart Presents their new watch cases


Watch cases made from nickel-free stainless steel that is

more than 100 times more scratch-resistant

Hanhart is the only watch brand in the world to use a certain kind of nickel-free

stainless steel for its wrist chronograph cases. This steel has been treated using

a special finishing process, making it extremely hard and therefore improving its

scratch resistance by more than 10,000%. The use of this finishing process is

patented for the watch- and jewellery making industry under the brand name


Hanhart is an undisputed specialist in producing robust and hard-wearing

instrument watches for use in the air, on the land and on the sea. In extreme

cases, these timepieces may be put under high levels of stress as they help

guide their users safely and reliably through whatever challenges they face.

This is why the Swiss-German watch brand has opted to use HDSPro® steel for

the cases of its mechanical chronographs in the future, making it the first

manufacturer in the watch industry across the world to do so. This steel offers

the perfect combination of hardness, resistance to corrosion and nickel-free


An innovative finishing process gives the watch case a surface structure that is

at least three times tougher than before. Compared to the varieties of stainless

steel previously used, this results in a more than 100-fold, and thus more than

10,000%, improvement in scratch resistance. This means that watches that are

put under a lot of stress will look as good as new even after years of wear!

Aside from its exceptional scratch resistance, this processed steel is also

distinguished by its outstanding resistance to corrosion, which is comparable

with any of the highest quality stainless steels available. Since the steel is not

coated during the finishing process, the authentic look and feel of the material

is retained and, moreover, there is no risk of chipping any layers of coating that

have been applied.

Last but not least, this steel does not contain any nickel, so watch cases made

from this material do not pose any known allergy risk.

The first Hanhart watches with cases made from scratch-resistant and nickelfree

HDSPro® stainless steel are due to be launched in 2012.


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New Management Announced at H. Moser & Cie

Neuhausen, 22 February 2012

Change in the Management

H. Moser & Cie. appoints new CEO

The Moser Group AG from Neuhausen am Rheinfall announces hereafter some changes within the Management of the company in view of ensuring future sustainability and growth of the company.

As from February 2012, Dr. Jürgen Lange will step back from his operational responsibilities in order to assist, as a member on the Board of Directors, in product development as well as brand representation. Furthermore the Board of Directors has appointed Dr. Christof Zuber as the new CEO of the Moser Group AG who officially took this position on February 6, 2012. Dr. Christof Zuber is an experienced executive with a solid background in company development.

The Moser Group is now ready to carry out the next necessary major developments, such as to further invest in production capacity and to continue increasing on the brand building. The Board of Directors is confident that with this appointment, the Moser Group will be able to, thanks to the support of Dr. Jürgen Lange’s experience, the management and all the employees successfully make the next future strategic decisions.

Moser Group AG

The Moser Group AG is a holding company that includes 3 entities:
First of all Moser Schaffhausen AG with its renowned watch brand H. Moser & Cie. Secondly Precision Engineering AG, a specialised manufacturer of escapements and especially hairsprings. Finally MSG AG Manufacturing Support Group which produces all key components to its sister companies.

The brand H. Moser & Cie., which was relaunched in 2005, combines tradition and innovation at the highest level for 185 years. In line with the company claim, "Passionately Different", Moser not only produces elegant watches with a touch of understatement, but also manufactures highly complex and innovative components, which are exclusive to the in-house H. Moser & Cie. movements.


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Tuesday, 21 February 2012

The Tornado from Ovel

This is the Tornado from Ovel -
Mechanical chronograph movement 25 Jewels


44-hour power reserve when fully wound

Date and day display

Small hacking seconds
Luminescent elements on hands, dial and rotating bezel

Screw-in crown

Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating both sides

Water-resistant 100 m

Case height 15 mm

Diameter 42 mm

Transparent sapphire crystal screw caseback

Find out more at -


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Monday, 20 February 2012

KUDOKE's"White Flower"

This year KUDOKE presents his time indicating artworks repeatedly at Baselworld – the world watch and jewelry fair. During the last months Stefan Kudoke has spent his time and creativity to develop new unique watch models. With a smaller stainless steel case of 38 mm he especially addresses female watch enthusiasts. Next to the unisex “Golden Dragon” he will present a pure watch for women called “White Flower”.
Just in time for the approaching spring Stefan Kudoke created the model “White Flower” which impresses with female elegance. According to its name rhodium plated flowers have been shaped out of the massive Sterling Silver dial by hand using the so called relief engraving technique. Next to the raised numbers eight white diamonds indicate the time. The exceptional and handmade blued steel hands take up on the flower theme. Shaped as leafs it has been created especially for this watch model. On the backside of the watch the flowers appear again entwining the center of the automatic winding movement.

Flowers are in need of warmth and light. Therefore it has been planted behind two translucent sapphire glasses like in a greenhouse. The body heat of the wearer warms the sensitive plants. Due to years of research Stefan Kudoke succeeded in cultivating a flower species that is able to cope without any water. That is why the case is protected against water. The flowers‘ vigor is fertilized by a Swiss automatic winding movement delicately refined in KUDOKE manner. The 38-mm-case impresses by quality features like screwed bezel, case back and strap elements.


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Sunday, 19 February 2012

Sapphire Fusion - "Experiments at + 2000°C"

Sapphire (Greek: sappheiros, "blue stone") is a gemstone variety of the mineral corundum, an aluminium oxide (α-Al2O3). Trace amounts of other elements such as iron, titanium, or chromium can give corundum blue, yellow, pink, purple, orange, or greenish color. Chromium impurities in corundum yield a red tint, and the resultant gemstone is called a ruby. They can also be manufactured for industrial or decorative purposes in large crystal boules. Because of the remarkable hardness of sapphires (and of aluminum oxide in general), sapphires are used in some non-ornamental applications, including infrared optical components, such as in scientific instruments; high-durability windows (also used in scientific instruments); wristwatch crystals and movement bearings.
Synthetic sapphire is industrially produced from agglomerated aluminum oxide, sintered and fused in an inert atmosphere (hot isostatic pressing for example), yielding a transparent polycrystalline product, slightly porous, or with more traditional methods such as Verneuil, Czochralski, flux method, etc., yielding a single crystal sapphire material which is non-porous and should be relieved of its internal stress. The melting point of sythetic sapphire is 2050°C.
First time for decorative Purpose
In the past months Angular Momentum has made some experiments fusing sapphire of various colors on a transparent sapphire watch crystal or dial. The process can be compared to classic virtreous enamel where glass powder is fused to a supstrate like gold, silver or copper with temperatures between 750 and 850 °C. But since the melting point of sapphire is 2050°C it is neither possible to fuse it with metal substrate nor using thin wires which are applied to form raised barriers, which contain different areas of subsequently applied enamel used in Cloisonné
The "Fusion" timepieces are showing some humble but still enchanting results of the first experiments.


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Thursday, 16 February 2012

Jaeger-LeCoultre opens a new page of the Reverso Virtual Museum - Dev Patel

Dev Patel wears a Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931 in steel with a special engraving that has a personal meaning for the actor: “For years I have had an obsession with doodling Trees wherever I go. It started in high school, to be specific in math’s class, where I would grab a textbook and spend hours perfecting my scribbles – anything to ease my boredom! Over time the image just stuck with me. Just the other day, I remember sketching a tree on a paper napkin for a member of staff who wanted my autograph in a restaurant.

The symbol of a tree exudes many qualities one associates with a leader, or even a great partner. A Provider who's Strong, Protective, Sensitive, Rooted, Creative, or even Selfless. Without sounding like a complete hippie, I really feel Trees possess a certain wisdom and mystery which gives them an aura of enchantment and magic. They epitomise new beginnings, much like when a tree loses its leaves and manages to grow new ones. Their real charm and power lies in being able to exude great strength but also immense sensitivity. As someone who's always been curious and eager to learn more, these are attributes which I strive to attain.

I guess what I am trying to say, is that, for me the image of a tree is a representation of life in all its complexity and beauty. It stands to represent opportunities, dreams, and should remind us all that being perfect is not the key… Growing is…

“He Who plants a tree, Plants a hope." (Lucy Lacrom, "Plant a Tree")
Let your dreams blossom… “, Dev Patel.

Dev Patel is a British actor. He is best known for playing Jamal Malik in Danny Boyle's Slumdog Millionaire (2008), for which Patel won a number of awards, including a Critics' Choice Award and a Screen Actors Guild Award. Patel is also known for his role as Anwar Kharral in the British teen drama series Skins. Dev was last seen in theaters starring in M. Night Shyamalan’s THE LAST AIRBENDER, and recently wrapped shooting a starring role opposite James Franco and Ashley Hinshaw in the independent film CHERRY. He is currently shooting a starring role opposite Jeff Daniels, Emily Mortimer and Allison Pill in Aaron Sorkin’s upcoming HBO series THE NEWSROOM which Scott Rudin is producing.
His recent film premiered last week in London, The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel, directed by John Madden. Dev Patel attended the World Premiere wearing Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931.

Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultreA major player in watchmaking history since 1833, Jaeger-LeCoultre is the first Manufacture to have been established in the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland. It played a pioneering role by uniting the full range of technical and artistic professions under one roof and made an indelible imprint on the watchmaking development of the entire region. The Manufacture has an impressive range of world firsts, superlative creations and legendary models to its credit, including the Reverso, the Duoplan, the Master Control, the Memovox Polaris, the Gyrotourbillon and the Atmos. Guided by time-honored know-how and a constant quest for technical enhancements, the master-watchmakers, engineers and technicians craft each watch in harmony with the same passion. Each masterpiece, heir to 178 years of expertise, calls for the exercise of no less than 40 professions and benefits from cutting-edge technologies while being crafted in harmony with the noblest traditions of the Vallée de Joux. Building on a vast heritage encompassing over 1,200 calibres and 300 registered patents, Jaeger-LeCoultre remains the reference in high-end watchmaking.


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Michael Margolis Joins Sowind Group’s team as President of America

La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland (February 16, 2012) – Girard-Perregaux, iconic luxury Swiss watch brand, and JeanRichard are proud to announce the appointment of Michael Margolis to its team as the new President of America for the Sowind Group. Margolis will join Michele Sofisti, Sowind Group CEO, Stefano Macaluso, Girard-Perregaux Managing Director, and Massimo Macaluso, JeanRichard Managing Director, to oversee the U.S. expansion strategy. Born in the United States, Margolis graduated with a double major in Latin American Studies and Foreign Languages from the University of Connecticut. Proficient in English, Spanish, Portuguese and German, he began a sales career at Crest Reprographics and later on moved on to Nikon. His life in the watch industry came as a result of his passion for luxury timepieces, which he developed as moderator from 1996 till 2007. It was at this time that Margolis began his professional career in the watch industry, when at the time Hublot CEO, Jean-Claude Biver, brought him into the team as Sales Director in the U.S.
“Mike is a remarkable individual, with true passion for the craft”, says Michele Sofisti, CEO of Sowind Group (Girard-Perregaux and JeanRichard). “We are very glad to have him on board to lead the U.S. team into this new phase of the brand and are sure that together we will be very successful”.

Margolis will join the Sowind Group (Girard-Perregaux and JeanRichard) as President of America starting March 1st, 2012, where he will use his long experience and success in the watch industry to help the brands achieve their ambitious goals in the U.S. market.

“I am very excited and honored to join iconic brands like Girard-Perregaux and JeanRichard”, says Michael Margolis. “I have admired the brands and their heritage from afar for many years and greatly look forward to being a part of the team”.

About Girard-Perregaux
Girard-Perregaux is a Swiss high-end watch manufacturer tracing its origins back to 1791. The history of the brand is marked by legendary watches that combine sharp design with innovative technology such as the renowned Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges presented by Constant Girard-Perregaux in 1889 at the Paris Universal exhibition where he was awarded a gold medal.
Devoted to the creation of state-of-the-art Haute Horlogerie, the Brand is one of the very few watchmakers to unite under the same roof all the skills to design and manufacture watches including the forging of their heart, the movement. With over 80 registered patents, Girard-Perregaux is fully committed to research and development to constantly fuse its unique heritage into modern watchmaking.

About Jeanrichard
Jeanrichard is a Swiss watchmaker that designs and creates high quality watches, combining traditional knowledge and skills with a truly innovative approach. Based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, Jeanrichard enjoys extensive creative and technical independence, promoting in-house development of watches.

With roots going all way back to 1681 and links to the watchmaking genius Daniel Jeanrichard (famed as one of the founding fathers of the Swiss watchmaking industry), the brand was taken over by Sowind Group (Girard-Perregaux) in 1988. Jeanrichard has been successfully reinterpreting time ever since, injecting contemporary energy inspired by a tradition on pioneering spirit. Acquascope, Highlands… Each collection has an assertive identity and combines a high level of expertise with the curiosity for discovering new horizons.


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Quantieme Perpetuel Au Grand Balancier from Antoine Martin

The case is hardly to be topped in terms of complexity. In order to showcase the wondrous interplay of polishing and satin finishing, this case was conceived to include detachable strap lugs. Thus, the recesses are polished to a high gloss, while the upper parts remain matte. The strikingly designed flanks, which lend the case its unique lines, are also individually secured. An unmistakable element of an ANTOINE MARTIN watch is certainly the crown, which is reminiscent of classic Bauhaus design. This case in its entirety is a lavish construction comprising 85 individual components.

The designers at ANTOINE MARTIN have also left nothing to chance with regard to the dial. A modern interpretation of classic guilloché embellishing the centre and a completely new style of applied numerals combine to create this watch’s very striking face. The vertical placement of the perpetual calendar’s day and month displays and the leap year indication at the 12 o’clock position were only possible thanks to a few new tricks up the engineers’ sleeves.

This is the Quantième Perpétuel au Grand Balancier
Hand-wound movement with six days power reserve
Case Steel black DLC, double anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Black rubber strap with steel black DLC folding clasp

And this is the Quantième Perpétuel au Grand Balancier
Hand-wound movement with six days power reserve
Case Rose gold 18K, double anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Genuine brown Louisiana alligator leather strap with rose gold18K folding clasp


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Wednesday, 15 February 2012

A Few Minutes with Eva Leube

From our partner site - Tempus Fugit

And now, a few minutes with Eva Leube
James Henderson - What was your first watch? Was it a gift? Is there a story behind it?

Eva Leube - My grandparents had a beautiful grandfather clock in their dining room. I grew up with its chime and was often allowed to wind it by pulling up the weights. At one of our family gatherings my grandfather took me to the side and taught me to read the time. I must have been around 5 or 6 years old. Then we went back into the dining room and in front of the whole extended family I showed off my new skill. Everyone cheered and my mother gave me my first watch, a manual wrist watch with a white dial and black minute and hour hands, I was extremely proud of it.

Later on as a watchmaker, I have sometimes been given watches that were in a bad shape and the owner did not want to invest in their restoration. My favourites are a small 18ct bangle watch which reads “La Leuba” on the dial and has a tiny Favre-Leuba movement inside.

Another is an Omega Geneve Automatic with orange indexes and orange seconds hand.
On my second day after arriving to work in Cape Town/South Africa I got talking to an interesting guy on a train. Before parting ways, he took his Rotary Automatic off his wrist and insisted on giving it to me as a lucky charm. He was on his way home from a party so I hope he didn’t look for his watch the next morning!

JH - When you were a young girl, what did you want to be when you "grew up"?

EL - I always wanted to learn a craft and be able to create exquisite things that would be handed down through generations. As a child and teenager I could absolutely immerse myself into making little, diverse things. I would paint armies of small figurines of Gauls and Romans or once made a 2-leveled jewellery box for my mother’s birthday, full of rings, necklaces and broches-all out of chocolate. From about 13 years old, I knew that I wanted to be either a watchmaker or a rock legend.

JH - Where did you go to school? What did you study?

EL - I went to a polytechnic high school in Berlin. I liked subjects like history, music, German, foreign languages but during the last couple of years I was good in maths and physics, because that was what you needed to get accepted into watchmaking and so I concentrated on it. I started my watchmaking apprenticeship in Berlin when I was 16 years old. Later, I went on to study in Hildesheim, 300km west of Berlin, where I received my Masters Certificate in Watchmaking at the age of 23.

JH - A bit about yourself please, what got you involved in the watch industry in the first place?

EL - When the time came to choose a profession, watchmaking was originally my mother’s idea but which I immediately liked a lot. As a child she had often visited a watchmaker near her family home. Her father was a physicist who told us that we “will be able to understand any sort of mechanism if we just looked at it long enough”, he must have given us the technical mindset and he was also the one that taught me to read the time. I think he put me onto my path very early on when he introduced me to his wood turning lathe. And to this day I love my profession, with its technical challenges and creativeness.

JH - Your CV has an impressive list - almost a who's-who of high end watches - Thomas Prescher, Rolex and Ulysse Nardin. What were those times like?

EL - My watchmaking career actually started off with many years of repair and restoration work for Antique stores. I loved this kind of work as it was very diverse and I got to look at many stunning and rare pieces from different eras and countries. Of course, fresh out of watchmaking school I probably could not yet fully appreciate what I had before me, this only came over the years as my understanding grew.

My years with Rolex were completely different and, again, very educational in a more structured way. Rolex has a long tradition as a company and thus a very comprehensive and thorough training program. It’s impressive to see how well this company is organized world wide. Working with the oldest through to the brand-new generations of movements one could appreciate the improvements that were implemented continuously over the years.
Ulysse Nardin are as well a fantastic company. Younger (counting from Schnyder) and more adventurous but also very well structured and set up with a great company spirit.

In 2005 I started with Thomas Prescher and found my calling in watch manufacturing. Thomas is a generous teacher and open with sharing experience and ideas. We built his complex mechanisms, including double-retrograde time indication and multiple-axis flying tourbillions part by part. What I always really liked was that he has great three-dimensional vision so we could constantly solve problems by discussing parts of mechanisms from one bench to the other without looking at drawings or, worse, pulling freshly oiled mechanisms apart. I learned a lot from him and went home happy every night with a great sense of achievement. We are still in regular contact.

JH - Australia is not always considered the first destination for a hand-constructed watch. What are some of the challenges you face working from there? What are some of the advantages?

EL - Up until my exhibition in Baselworld ’11, only close friends and family knew that I was working on “a watch” so I was pretty much on my own. I sometimes missed the conversations with people from the same field plus, sourcing tools and materials from Switzerland is more time-consuming and costly from here. But when I did meet some great specialists, a Swiss toolmaker, an English engraver and a few others these people always had a lot of time for me and an interest in my work.

I would have had more outside help available if I had built my watch in Switzerland or Germany. But the positive side of making it here in Australia is that it turned out very uniquely “me”. I have had the most exiting time in doing my own drawing, milling, turning, case making and having to solve new “mysteries” every day. To finally exhibit my work in Basel turned out to be one of my proudest moments. Since then, the internet and social media help to bridge the distance. They quickly got me in touch with many international watch enthusiasts which might have been a drawn-out process ten years earlier.

JH - The Ari is truly a work of art. How long did that process take from idea to completion?

EL - The idea for my watch had been in the back of my head for many years. I could always see it quite clearly but I was the only one. Following the birth of my son I started my own business and 4 very intense years of working on the Ari prototype followed. These years of course also included raising a newborn, teaching myself a drawing program ( I am still surprised ) and relocating back to Australia (from Switzerland), moving again within Australia, et cetera..

JH - Who else out there is making watches that interest you?

EL - I admire the work of each individual AHCI member and other Independents, what an extraordinary group and what an honor to exhibit with them. At Baselworld I was truly combining work with pleasure when for a week surrounded by a selection of their masterpieces as well as each watchmaker’s very individual personality.
I am also a great lover of historical time pieces and automatons. They tell us a story about the period they were built in and about the technical advances and fashions of that time. Centuries later, the great Masters of the past allow us a fascinating glimpse of the days before industrialisation, when everything we see in their time pieces was still made by hand, using their own hand made tools. The heart and soul and the mind of the watchmaker that is visible in their watch resonates much more with me than absolute perfect finish.

JH - What do you like to do in your down time?

EL - There is not much of that and I have packed in many of my hobbies for the time being. But I go running on the beach every day and I go hiking with family and friends. When I run I solve many of my technical and other little problems and when I’m in the forest I can switch off.
Australia is a very young and modern country so when I am overseas-and I love to travel- I always soak up the history of each place. I will visit every watch museum, historical museum or art gallery I can find. My brother who is an opera singer lives in the north of Germany, on the Baltic Sea, in which area you find a group of the oldest remaining monumental astronomical clocks in the world. The clock in the city of Stralsund is the most complete and best documented of them all. It dates back to 1394, a time of great concentration of political and economical power of the hanseatic or seafaring cities of the north which attracted many highly learned scientists as well as exceptionally qualified tradespeople.

JH - If you weren't doing what do you think you might be doing?

EL - I would love to be a mad engraver or painter, enamelist, goldsmith, cabinet maker and pianist, but unfortunately there are not enough hours in the day. And then I have a big fascination with automatons.

JH - So who is the next Eva Leube out there?

EL - I don’t know, because she will surprise us. My motto was always: "build the watch first, talk about it later".

JH - What advice do you have for the next group of independent watch makers out there?

EL - If you have a good idea, be confident, don’t give up until your project is achieved and enjoy the absolute excitement along the way! It might sometimes be easy to get intimidated by the enormous and rapid achievements of bigger companies. But instead, be yourself and be personal in your work because this is what independent watchmaking is all about. Most importantly, use the quiet time before your watch hits the market to be as prepared as possible for what is coming.


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Monday, 13 February 2012

The PIONEER MonoScope from Hanhart

PIONEER MonoScope – One for all

Just like its legendary predecessors produced by Hanhart, the Pioneer
MonoScope features a single button for controlling the entire range of chronograph
functions. This new model from the Pioneer collection also bears another
striking hallmark of the early precision timepieces made by the Swiss-German
watch brand in the widely spaced arrangement of its small seconds and 30-
minute counter displays.

In the first half of the 20th century, Hanhart was a key pioneer in developing
highly-functional precision chronographs. As early as 1938, the Swiss-German
watch brand designed a mono-pusher model for naval officers, featuring its own
“Calibre 40” movement. All of the chronograph functions on this unconventional
wristwatch – start, stop and reset – are performed by the same button and
always follow strictly one after the other. Unlike its two-button equivalent, the
seconds hand on this chronograph cannot be restarted after it is stopped. The
next time the button is pressed, the seconds hand invariably jumps back to its
initial position. This is the perfect technology for navigating safely and
measuring distances at sea as it rules out any possibility of faulty navigation by
dispensing with an addition stopping function.

Extraordinary technology and aesthetics
The technical design with a single button is also the trademark feature of the
Pioneer MonoScope. The automatic movement enclosed in the generously-sized
stainless steel case, which measures 45 millimetres in diameter, has had to be
re-engineered slightly to suit this mono-pusher arrangement. The lever which
sits directly beneath the point where the button at 4 o’clock would normally be
has no function. A large shift lever is therefore responsible for the third strike
on the chronograph cam. This cam has also been modified so that it has an
additional tooth on its lowest level, enabling the shift lever to control not two,
but three positions.

This is not, however, the only distinctive element of this new model in the
Pioneer collection. A further modification of the calibre has made it possible for
the two displays for the small seconds and the 30-minute counter, which are
typical of Hanhart chronographs, to be positioned right on the edge of the dial.

The aesthetic appearance of this model is therefore perfectly coordinated with
the design of its predecessors from the 1930s, for which this arrangement was
adopted in order to accommodate the large size – 15.5 lignes – of Hanhart’s
early manufacture calibre. On the Pioneer MonoScope, the centres of the two
displays, together with the numerals 2 and 4 as well as 8 and 10, form a
straight, vertical axis, resulting in a symmetrically-balanced presentation.

Flawless readability, in the characteristic style of a functional instrument watch,
is ensured in any situation by the distinctive luminous Arabic numerals and the
hands which are also coated with Super-LumiNova®. This is also enhanced by
the minute hand, the end of which is bent downwards slightly to ensure a more
precise time display. The black and silver colours used on this watch reflect the
colours traditionally preferred for precision timepieces.
The typical Hanhart features
In addition to the unmistakable bicompax display format, the new MonoScope –
like the other models in the Pioneer collection – is distinguished by the typical
characteristics of a Hanhart chronograph: the upper chronograph button,
positioned at a greater distance from the lug for more ease of use, is especially
striking and is a feature unique to this watch manufacturer. In order to achieve
this arrangement, Hanhart integrates a specially designed lever into the case in
its own workshops. This redirects the force from pressing the button located at
2 o’clock by the required number of millimetres. No less eye-catching is the
striking red button, which has been a hallmark of Hanhart watches since 1939
and, right from the start, it has helped to deter wearers from inadvertently
resetting the stopped time during navigation. The large, easy-to-handle crown
with a deep bevelled edge guarantees safe and simple use. The bezel is
available either in a thin design which can be rotated in either direction and
which comes with a fluted, slip-proof finish and red marking or in an elegant
and plain design with a flat surface. Elegantly contrasting satin-finished and
polished surfaces give the case distinctive character. To guarantee maximum
water-resistance and robustness, the Pioneer MonoScope is, like the archetypal
models on which it is based, fitted with a sealed, screwed-down case back
which includes three indentations for the case key. The rivetted strap made
from firm, hard-wearing calfskin and a high-quality pin buckle offer a secure fit
on the wrist. The Pioneer MonoScope is also optionally available with a stainless
steel bracelet and an adjustable folding clasp.


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Friday, 10 February 2012

Jay-Z chose Jaeger-LeCoultre

Jay-Z chose Jaeger-LeCoultre

Jay-Z wore a Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931 in rose gold when performing at Carnegie Hall to Benefit the United Way of New York City and the Shawn Carter Foundation.


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